Bars such as the Parco Sempione district's Roialto and Milano pride themselves on conspicuous consumption – waiters shuck oysters to order, flip bespoke omelettes, and saw your choice of cheese from enormous wheels of the stuff. While lacking the historical upper hand, Milan's aperitivo scene is equally, if not even more, over the top. The latter bucks the all-out, all-inclusive trend: instead, focaccia, artisan Piedmontese cheeses and cold cuts can be had for €5, with wine remaining at very reasonable a la carte prices. Just north of the Quadrilatero Romano, Piazza Emanuele Filiberto is a hip but pretty little square with several options including Francophone Pastis, traditionalist Arancia di Mezzanotte and the delightful Tre Galli. If the Piazza's barely subdued club-kid feel is not your style, up on Via Po, family-friendly Caffe Roberto serves up 'apericena' – three courses from risotto to roasts to tiramisu. Piazza Vittoria Veneto's Drogheria attracts a young crowd for a healthy help-yourself spread – faro salads, frittata, paella – and Stevie Wonder on vinyl, while the ultra slick Bianco goes all out with a hot pasta buffet. The city has its fair share of evocative historic cafes (such as Piazza San Carlo's Caffe San Carlo or Caffe Torino) as well as many 21st-century bars. It's a boast at least based in historical fact: vermouth – a fortified wine infused with herbs – was invented there in 1786. The stately capital of Piedmont, Turin, claims to have come up with the aperitivo idea. What can you expect to find on your plate come Campari o'clock? The cocktail hour stretches into three – generally from 6pm-9pm, though bars are often empty before 7pm. The same flat rate charge will often be applied to beer, wine, analcolici (virgin) cocktails and even mineral water. Prices are routinely hoisted to take in the price of the 'free' food, and range from around €4 up to €15 per drink at some of Milan's more stellar hotels. Menu stalwarts include Punt e Mes on the rocks, a Negroni (Campari, Martini Rosso vermouth and gin), the Americano (Campari, Martini Rosso vermouth and soda), or a spritz (Aperol or Campari and prosecco).
It's often still done this way, but in the fashionable neighbourhoods of Turin, Milan and Rome, the tradition has morphed into a nightly phenomenon of complimentary buffet spreads so lavish that the three courses that are supposed to follow are almost a thing of the past.Īperitivo drinks are often the establishment's proudest accomplishment and based around traditional aperitifs or fortified wines.
Once upon a time, a pre-dinner drink in Italy meant a swiftly served aperitif with a bowl of nuts or potato chips and some fat green olives.
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